February 3, 2024

Author: Jenya Stashkov, artist and art critic, Sheffield, UK

Jiahao Chen, a promising name in contemporary fashion, blends the bold lines of modernity with the delicate essence of tradition. His educational journey from Zhejiang Wanli University to the prestigious London College of Fashion, culminating in an MSc in Consumer Behaviour from Goldsmiths, University of London, laid the foundation for his innovative approach to menswear. As the Executive Director of Jacquard Loom in Shanghai, Chen has made significant strides in the fashion industry, demonstrating a unique ability to weave personal narratives and cultural critiques into his collections.

Educational Journey and Professional Ascent

Chen’s passion for design transcends the conventional boundaries of fashion, beginning with a BA in Interior Design at Zhejiang Wanli University, progressing through intensive preparations at the London College of Fashion, and finally mastering Menswear. His transition into fashion was marked by a keen sense of entrepreneurship, leading to his pivotal role at Jacquard Loom, where he not only managed operations but also infused his collections with a narrative depth that garnered attention from major designer stores across China.

Entrepreneurial Ventures and Work Experience

Chen’s tenure at TANGXINDAN and VICTOR X WANG provided him with a broad spectrum of experiences, from managing garment departments to assisting in high-profile fashion events. These roles were instrumental in honing his skills in garment research, design, and production, laying the groundwork for his future collections.

Collection Insights: "Same Love in China" & "Vaquera in Mud"

The "Same Love in China" collection, also known as "Lavender Marriage," is a powerful exploration of gender fluidity, societal norms, and the concept of freedom within the confines of tradition. This collection stands as a personal and societal narrative that challenges and transcends the traditional boundaries of gender through the medium of fashion.

Inspired by the personal experiences of Jiahao Chen as a queer individual navigating the complexities of societal acceptance in China, the collection seeks to dismantle entrenched stereotypes and reimagines the concept of marriage and happiness beyond gender constraints. By incorporating elements of both menswear and womenswear, Chen not only blurs the lines between traditional gender roles but also pays homage to the rich cultural heritage of China.

The collection is characterized by its innovative tailoring and use of traditional Chinese jacquard patterns. One of the standout pieces, a coat from the first look, marries the delicate neckline of a bridal gown with the robust silhouette of a classic Chinese tunic suit, symbolizing the union of masculine and feminine energies. Another remarkable piece is an elegant long coat that seamlessly integrates elements of a women’s corset and tube dress with a men’s coat, presenting a poetic reinterpretation of gendered attire.

"Vaquera in Mud" marks a bold departure from traditional norms, inspired by the spirited and uninhibited essence of the cowgirl or "vaquera." This collection encapsulates Jiahao Chen’s vision for Jacquard Loom, reflecting a harmonious balance between tradition and modernity, structure and deconstruction.

Drawing from a diverse array of life experiences and unwavering design principles, "Vaquera in Mud" is a testament to Chen’s ability to blend contrasting elements into a cohesive whole. The collection boldly combines traditional Chinese jacquard fabrics with cutting-edge, contemporary tailoring techniques, redefining conventional fashion norms with a modern, deconstructed aesthetic.

The collection is celebrated for its daring approach to tailoring and use of fabric, pushing the boundaries of traditional Chinese jacquard by placing it in contemporary contexts. This innovative juxtaposition not only pays tribute to Chen’s cultural heritage but also signifies a departure from conventional gendered fashion, promoting a narrative of freedom and bold individuality.

Jiahao Chen’s work is a vibrant tapestry of cultural homage and forward-thinking design philosophy. Through his collections, Chen not only pays tribute to his heritage but also challenges the fashion industry to embrace broader definitions of beauty and identity. His journey is not just about clothing; it’s about storytelling, identity, and the relentless pursuit of individuality in a world bound by tradition.